The first impression of Tajikistan was a bit underwhelming – we had heard people rave about the Pamir Highway, the second highest road in the world, but on our first day the weather was overcast and the place just looked bleak and desolate. Even after travelling in Kyrgystan there was also a cultural shock at the poverty and utter remoteness of the town of Murghab. Finally there was the struggle of high altitude – Murgab is at 3600m and the road goes over a pass of 4700m. But after the first day there, I gradually warmed to the country and regret not being able to spend more time to visit other parts.
(Tajikistan ended up being my favourite place of the holidays in central Asia, even if the people didn’t feel as hospitable as the Kyrgyz).
That being said, as a non-muslim and a foreigner, I didn’t feel quite comfortable getting out of the car in Murghab as even when in the car, you attract stares.
The guesthouse was lovely but was slightly away from the town, having a view over it, which may have made helped me feel more relaxed.
I was also extremely lucky that the night before we left it snowed, making for spectacular views as we returned back along the Pamir Highway.