The Hooker Valley Track at Mount Cook – so good I did it twice

Mount Cook

I left Wanaka in the morning, stopping briefly to photograph the now-famous “Wanaka tree”. This used to be a perfectly anonymous piece of vegetation until someone won a photographic competition with a picture of it, and since then it has been a magnet for selfie enthusiasts from all around the world. I was rather underwhelmed, but anyway here is my photo…….

The “Wanaka Tree”

I broke the roughly two-hour drive to Mount Cook at the Clay Cliffs, an interesting geological feature located 10km along a gravel road off the main highway. Entrance was by an unmanned gate with an honesty box requesting a $10 fee – which everyone seemed to pay (try that back home!)

Approaching the Clay Cliffs…
…and inside the Clay Cliffs

Next, I stocked up with food at the small town of Twizel before taking the road north to Mount Cook, New Zealand’s tallest mountain (3724m). As I drove along the scenic Lake Pukaki, the mountain steadily grew bigger and bigger.

Approaching Mount Cook along Lake Pukaki
Mount Cook gets closer….

I checked into my hotel and looked forward to some interesting hiking the next day, with a forecast of sun all day. When I woke the next morning the weathermen had changed their mind, predicting sun and showers in the morning and rain in the afternoon. So I hurriedly got ready and set off along the Hooker Valley Track, a 10km walk that was supposed to give great views of Mount Cook. The promised sun was hidden by clouds and soon it began to drizzle – and later to rain. The overcast weather meant that Mount Cook remained stubbornly out of sight, but at least I could take some atmospheric photos of rainbows and mountains in the rain.

Hiking the Hooker Valley Track in the Rain

The track crossed three suspension bridges and ended at the Hooker Lake, at the end of the Hooker glacier.

Bridge on the Hooker Valley Track
Hooker Lake in the Rain, no sign of Mount Cook…

I returned along the same path, with the rain falling harder and harder, and was relieved to get back to the hotel. I spent the afternoon relaxing and writing my blog, until in the early evening I noticed that the sun had finally appeared. Being a very stubborn teddy – and determined to take some good pictures for my readers – I put on my (still wet) hiking gear again and hurried off along the same Hooker Valley Track I had walked in the morning. In the evening sun it was completely different, with magnificent views of Mount Cook.

Mount Cook area scenery in the sun!
The Hooker Valley Track in the sun this time, with Mount Cook visible!

I reached the Hooker Lake and took more photos, but headed back when it started to get cold.

The definitive photo of Mount Cook and Hooker Lake

Halfway back, just as my clothes had dried out, it started raining again, and once I again I reached home a rather soggy teddy bear. Still, I was happy – I had had a full experience of Mount Cook in two very different sets of weather conditions. Tomorrow I would experience New Zealand’s most iconic mountain in yet another, very different, way. Stay tuned!

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Next Post: More Aspects of Mount Cook

Mount Aspiring and Wanaka

Today was a very full day, since I had to get from Te Anau in the south to Wanaka, in the middle of New Zealand’s South Island. On the way there was the usual pleasant New Zealand scenery, especially near Lake Wakitipu on the approach to Queenstown.

Lake Wakitipu, near Queenstown

I made a brief stop for a morning coffee at Arrowtown, a small gold rush town that time forgot. It has one main street with traditional old houses……..and lots of tourists.

Arrowtown’s main (only?) street

From Arrowtown, I continued my route north over the scenic Crown Range of mountains.

Crossing the scenic Crown Range

In the early afternoon I arrived at Wanaka, a popular tourist destination located on a lake. It seemed to be similar to Queenstown but on a smaller scale and more laid back. I found my B+B, quickly dropped my stuff and immediately set off again for the day’s main activity – a hike up to Mount Aspiring’s glacier. The road to get there was worth the trip in itself, and went through some beautiful countryside, with my destination often visible at the end of a long valley.

Mount Aspiring from a distance

On the way there were some road hazards typical of New Zealand….

New Zealand Road Hazard

Just before the starting place for the hike I made a short stop at the incredibly scenic Wishbone Falls, where water tumbled down from cliffs into a lush valley with rich vegetation.

Wishbone falls from afar….
…and close up, with rainbow

A few minutes’ drive further on from the waterfall was the end of the road and the car park for hikers walking to Mount Aspiring. The path was quite easy and went through even more beautiful countryside…

Mount Aspiring’s glacier beckons in the distance

….and then rose more steeply through a forest.

Ahead, the Mount Aspiring’s glacier played peek-a-boo with me as it ducked in and out of sight.

The glacier plays hide-and-seek

A final steep climb brought me to the upper viewing station, which gave an uninterrupted view of glacier in all its glory and about a dozen waterfalls falling from it. Unfortunately, since I had set off late, the glacier itself was in shade so my photos were a bit disappointing, but it was still an amazing sight.

Mount Aspiring glacier
Close up of the glacier
The glacier towers over the forest

The return trip brought out the positive side of my late start – the evening sun brought out wonderful colours in the mountains ahead of me. Sometimes I thought I was looking at a huge canvas of abstract modern art, painted with bold, broad brushstrokes on the cliffs.

Evening light, Mount Aspiring area
Clouds cast shadows on the mountains
Typical NZ hikers’ bridge

The drive home was just as beautiful as the outward trip, but looked quite different in the fading light. It had been a very good day and one of the best hikes I had ever done – alpine pastures, mountain streams, forests, waterfalls and a glacier all in the space of a fairly undemanding 11km walk. As a reward I treated myself to a very good dinner in one of the few restaurants still open in Wanaka by the time I got back, and contemplated the wonders of nature over monkfish and some excellent New Zealand sauvignon blanc.

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Next Post: Mount Cook and the Hooker Valley Track

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