Yet More Aspects of Mount Cook

Mount Cook from the air

Today I made one last short walk in the Mount Cook area to the Tasman Glacier. An easy thirty minute stroll took me a viewpoint over the glacier’s lake where groups of tourists were being taken out on boat tours.

The Tasman Glacial Lake

The glacier itself at the far end of the lake was a dirty gray colour; compared to my brilliant hikes of yesterday, today’s walk was rather disappointing, but at least the scenery around the lake was just as impressive as that which I had seen the day beforehand .

Scenery near the Tasman Lake

Soon it was time to head on to my next destination, Lake Tekapo. The road went back along the west bank of Lake Pukaki and then briefly along its south bank, where there was yet another great view of Mount Cook.

Mount Cook from the south shore of Lake Pukaki

Lake Tekapo was like so many of the other places I stayed in New Zealand – a sleepy small town located on a picturesque lake – in Lake Tekapo’s case the lake is fed by glacier water and is s striking light blue colour. On the lake shore stood the much-photographed and tiny Church of the Good Shepherd, built to commemorate the country’s early European settlers in 1935 (which makes it almost an ancient monument by New Zealand’s standards!).

Church of the Good Shepherd, Lake Tekapo

On the beach near the church, travellers had amused themselves building towers of rocks and pebbles to mark their passage, some of which were strikingly sophisticated.

An engineer must have made the bridge……

After checking in to my bed and breakfast I set off for my main activity of the day – a 50-minute flight around Mount Cook and over the Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers.

Our Cessna sight-seeing plane

The weather was perfect – sunny, no wind and a few clouds and soon I was in the air in a group of sixteen tourists admiring some amazing scenery.

Our route headed up over Lake Tekapo…

and then up a mostly dry river valley……

….lined with the foothills of the Mount Cook Range….

…to the glacial lakes I had seen on my previous walks in the area.

Glacial Lakes at the foot of the Mount Cook Range

Then the plane flew over the huge snow fields on the top of the high mountains….

Snow fields feeding the glaciers

….that feed three huge glaciers – the Tasman glacier (the longest), which flows east, and then the Franz Joseph and Fox glaciers which flow the other way, almost reaching New Zealand’s west coast (which was covered with cloud during my flight).

The starting point of the Fox and Franz-Joseph glaciers
Franz-Joseph glacier descending to the South Island’s west coast

Then we flew past Mount Tasman, New Zealand’s second highest peak…….

Mount Tasman

….before the pilot gave us a close up view of Mount Cook. It was a great way to remember the mountain that had followed me for the few two days.

Mount Cook

I am only a week in to my New Zealand holiday but I think I can already confidently say that the flight will be one of the highlights. My only complaint was that it was over all too quickly, and we were soon touching down at Lake Tekapo airport to reconnect with normal life.

The day had one last adventure in store. I spent the rest of the afternoon sorting out the hundreds of photos I had taken from the flight, before having dinner in a local restaurant. Later that night I headed out again to enjoy the night sky. Lake Tekapo is part of a “dark sky reserve” where light pollution is kept to a minimum – even the town’s street lighting is specially designed to project light only downwards. The organisation Dark Sky Project offers nighttime trips to observatories out of town to see a night sky almost untainted by artificial light; I wanted to book a tour but I was too late and they had all sold out. So instead, I headed to the town’s golf course, parked my car and looked up to see the magnificent spectacle of the Southern Hemisphere night sky. To my surprise, I even manged to take a few photos with my phone.

The diamond-shaped Southern Cross and the Milky Way

Stargazing was a great way to end a memorable and very varied day.

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The Hooker Valley Track at Mount Cook – so good I did it twice

Mount Cook

I left Wanaka in the morning, stopping briefly to photograph the now-famous “Wanaka tree”. This used to be a perfectly anonymous piece of vegetation until someone won a photographic competition with a picture of it, and since then it has been a magnet for selfie enthusiasts from all around the world. I was rather underwhelmed, but anyway here is my photo…….

The “Wanaka Tree”

I broke the roughly two-hour drive to Mount Cook at the Clay Cliffs, an interesting geological feature located 10km along a gravel road off the main highway. Entrance was by an unmanned gate with an honesty box requesting a $10 fee – which everyone seemed to pay (try that back home!)

Approaching the Clay Cliffs…
…and inside the Clay Cliffs

Next, I stocked up with food at the small town of Twizel before taking the road north to Mount Cook, New Zealand’s tallest mountain (3724m). As I drove along the scenic Lake Pukaki, the mountain steadily grew bigger and bigger.

Approaching Mount Cook along Lake Pukaki
Mount Cook gets closer….

I checked into my hotel and looked forward to some interesting hiking the next day, with a forecast of sun all day. When I woke the next morning the weathermen had changed their mind, predicting sun and showers in the morning and rain in the afternoon. So I hurriedly got ready and set off along the Hooker Valley Track, a 10km walk that was supposed to give great views of Mount Cook. The promised sun was hidden by clouds and soon it began to drizzle – and later to rain. The overcast weather meant that Mount Cook remained stubbornly out of sight, but at least I could take some atmospheric photos of rainbows and mountains in the rain.

Hiking the Hooker Valley Track in the Rain

The track crossed three suspension bridges and ended at the Hooker Lake, at the end of the Hooker glacier.

Bridge on the Hooker Valley Track
Hooker Lake in the Rain, no sign of Mount Cook…

I returned along the same path, with the rain falling harder and harder, and was relieved to get back to the hotel. I spent the afternoon relaxing and writing my blog, until in the early evening I noticed that the sun had finally appeared. Being a very stubborn teddy – and determined to take some good pictures for my readers – I put on my (still wet) hiking gear again and hurried off along the same Hooker Valley Track I had walked in the morning. In the evening sun it was completely different, with magnificent views of Mount Cook.

Mount Cook area scenery in the sun!
The Hooker Valley Track in the sun this time, with Mount Cook visible!

I reached the Hooker Lake and took more photos, but headed back when it started to get cold.

The definitive photo of Mount Cook and Hooker Lake

Halfway back, just as my clothes had dried out, it started raining again, and once I again I reached home a rather soggy teddy bear. Still, I was happy – I had had a full experience of Mount Cook in two very different sets of weather conditions. Tomorrow I would experience New Zealand’s most iconic mountain in yet another, very different, way. Stay tuned!

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