Melbourne – the Botanic Gardens, NGV, Victoria Market and Mornington Peninsula

On the next couple of days I visited some of Melbourne’s more traditional sights. To the southeast of the city centre is a large expanse of green parkland along the banks of the Yarra River, which houses the Rod Laver Stadium , Melbourne’s iconic Cricket Ground and its Botanic Gardens…….

Melbourne’s Botanic Gardens
A huge cone at the Botanic Gardens

Melbourne also is home to the NGV or National Gallery of Victoria, which has two centres, one devoted to international art and one to Australian works. I visited the latter, of which the highlight was the aboriginal art collection.

The NGV, Melbourne

As well as art and cultural life, Melbourne is famous for its food scene. Eateries range from top end places, ranked amongst the best restaurants in the world, to the incredibly cheap Asian options cramming Chinatown’s streets. It would be silly not to indulge, so I visited Melbourne’s foodies paradise, Victoria market, to buy some food for the evening and had some cheap Ethiopian street food for lunch.

Victoria Market, Melbourne
Enjoying street food in Victoria Market

Having explored Melbourne’s centre for a couple of days, I next ventured further afield– first on a long tram trip to the beach neighbourhood of St Kilda. The route went through a residential area, amazingly composed almost entirely of quaint one- and two- storey houses – as surprisingly small as the centre’s skyscrapers seem excessively tall.

Typical house outside of Melbourne’s centre

After the crowds of the city centre, St Kilda’s beach was a pleasant place to chill, with a view over the sea – flat like a mirror – all the way back to the city centre.

Kicking back at St Kilda’s beach
St Kilda Beach

I also made a longer trip by hire car to the Mornington Peninsula. The city’s suburbs stretch for miles, but after an hour of driving I found myself in pleasant countryside – an area with farms, craft breweries, gin distilleries……..and lots of wineries. It would be a crime to come to Australia and not do a wine tasting, so I visited the well-known Red Hill Estate and tasted a range of excellent wines made from cold climate grape varieties like chardonnay or pinot noir.

Wine tasting at the Red Hill Estate, Mornington Peninsula

The peninsula also houses two pretty national parks, where I went for a brief walk before rain started to fall (the first rain of my Australian trip).

Cape Schanck Lighthouse, Mornington Pensinsula
Coastal scenery on the Mornington Peninsula

On my last night in the city, I had time for one last typically Melbourne experience – a private members club. The Savage Club sits in this impressive building which dates from the city’s 19th century boom years.

The Melbourne Savage Club

Inside (no photos allowed sadly) there were lots of the rooms typical of clubs back in London, with huge leather armchairs so deep, soft and comfortable that once seated with a glass of port in my paw it was hard to move. Fortunately, the seat I had chosen allowed an excellent view some extraordinary Polynesian and Melanesian tribal art, tastefully displaced around all four walls of the bar room. The foundation of this collection came from a past member who had been a governor of Papua New Guinea and had received many gifts from the local people there, which he later donated to the club. The Melbourne Savage Club is modelled on its London namesake and attracts writers, musicians and painters. Some of the regular members came up to welcome an unfamiliar face (something that would not happen in a London club!) and chatted about my impressions of their city. The club was a wonderful way to end my exploration of Melbourne – a place which rewards those that spend a few days to dig under its surface.

More Melbourne Street Art

Previous Post: Melbourne Street Art

Melbourne – street art and hidden gems

Melbourne was very different to Sydney. The streets were busy and slightly scruffy, and there were roadworks everywhere. The population seemed very young and very Asian. The city was laid out on a neat grid, but its buildings were an anarchic mix of elegant old constructions from Melbourne’s boom years in the late 1800s (with the Victoria gold rush) and improbably tall modern skyscrapers, sometimes built right next to modest two-storey houses.

Contrasting styles in Melbourne

My accommodation was a flat in one of the skyscrapers and I dropped my stuff off and went out to explore.

The view from my flat in Melbourne

The city teamed with life, like an anthill on steroids. A lot of the modern architecture was very successful, like this shopping arcade….

A shopping mall in Melbourne

Amongst the modern skyscrapers were some glorious old buildings.

An elegant old Melbourne building
The Forum, a Melbourne institution and performance venue

Some of the old buildings had semi-hidden entrances that an intrepid bear could walk through to admire the stylish interiors.

Inside an old Melbourne building

Melbourne turned out to be a city where the best things are hidden and need to be searched out – in contrast to Sydney’s in-your-face Opera House and harbour. Leading off the main streets are small arcades, filled with small shops, bars and cafes.

Gog and Magog guard a swanky arcade in Melbourne

Walking around and exploring this chaos was a lot of fun, and a good way to build up a thirst for another Melbourne tradition – the roof top bar, of which there were dozens. I dropped into one to enjoy the early evening atmosphere. I was half-way through my first beer, when five o’clock struck and suddenly a wave of visitors clambered up the stairs to join me – it seems that many Melburnians do not work a minute more than their contractual hours.

Another of Melbourne’s hidden attractions is its amazing collection of street art, mostly hidden away down dingy alleyways. An incredible diversity of art is mostly painted….

Melbourne street art

….and sometimes stuck onto the walls of the city.

Art stuck onto a building in Melbourne

Some of these art installations are in popular places that are firmly on the tourist trail, like the famous AC/DC Alley, and others are in quiet, edgy neighbourhoods where drug addicts and graffiti artists hang out.

Touristy AC/DC alley in Melbourne
Street art in edgy part of North Melbourne

I ended my tour of Melbourne street art in yet another rooftop bar. My initial impressions of the city were a bit negative, but after a couple of days of walking around exploring hidden arcades and alleyways, I am getting to like it a lot.

Previous Post: Sydney Indoors

Next Post: Melbourne, traditional sights

Blog at WordPress.com.

Up ↑