Floating over the Southern Serengeti

Today, even by the standards of our safari, we woke up unusually early for a 5.15 am departure. We drove through the night and arrived at a flat empty plain, where a group of Tanzanians was preparing a large hot air balloon. This was to be a new experience for us, and as the sky slowly got lighter in the east, we watched as the staff inspected the balloon’s fabric, and then started to fill it with hot air from a propane burner. The captain of our flight emerged to give us a safety briefing and assure us that he had been piloting balloons for twenty years without incident.

Checking our balloon

Just as the sun starting rising, we ready for take-off. Along with landing, this was the only slightly complicated part of the flight and involved us curling up at the bottom of the basket whilst balloon lifted slowly into the air. Soon our captain announced we could stand up and we were greeted by a magical sight of sunrise over the Serengeti plains, with the ground far below.

Sunrise from the air

Our balloon drifted gently with the wind, sweeping over trees, herds of antelopes and giraffes. There was a wonderful silence, broken occasionally by the sound of some more gas been burnt to maintain our altitude, and the soft murmur of my fellow passengers as they admired the amazing sight. Although the Serengeti’s animals and birds are used to jeeps, they seemed scared by our balloon and hurried away as we approached them.

Looking down on antelope
Keeping afloat

We let our minds float with our balloon over the Serengeti plains, soaking in the experience and filming the animals below us.

Our Balloon’s shadow on the plain

I was surprised when our pilot announced that we had been flying for over an hour and it was time to prepare for landing – it seemed that we had only just started. Too soon, we had to crouch back down in our basket and wait for out balloon to hit the ground with a series of bumps. Our successful flight was celebrated with fizzy wine accompanied by songs and dancing by the balloon’s support staff, who had been following us in jeeps as we flew.

We then got back into a jeep and drove for about an hour back to a picnic area close to where we had started, for a copious outdoors breakfast. At around nine a.m. our balloon experience was over and we met up with our guide Estomih again in our own jeep.

Bush Breakfast

Amazingly we still had nearly a full day for a game drive, and to get yet more close up views of big cats, birds and herbivores. We got our closest yet view of a leopard, who started lying in the grass in front of us before climbing up a small tree…..

My best leopard photos yet!

…..and then reconnected with the two cheetahs we had seen the day before.

We were not alone to admire these cheetahs, whose small shady bush had been surrounded by an array of tourist jeeps. We were travelling in the mid-season (January), and Estomih told us that in high season there would be twice as many vehicles. We don’t like crowds and were glad we had avoided this.

Reconnecting with two cheetahs…..

It was soon time for lunch, which we had inside our jeep for a change.

The afternoon’s game drive was quieter, with flamingos, impala, zebra, wildebeest and a few more lions.

Zebra with calf
A herd of Impala

As the afternoon progressed, we became a bit tired after several long days and early starts, not to mention our big lunch and glass of Tanzanian wine! So we headed back to our camp to recharge our batteries after another memorable day.

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The Serengeti – Leopards, Cheetahs and yet more lions

After the forty-eight lions we had seen yesterday, today Estomih our guide was determined to find us some different big cats. As usual, with the help of the guides’ exchanging of information over the radio, he delivered. Our first rendezvous was with a young male leopard, which as usual for its species was lazing in a tree.

A magnificent leopard

Having admired the magnificent animal for while, we set off in search of cheetahs…….and duly found three young males making their way through the thick grass of the Serengeti plains.

Our first cheetahs! (of many)

Over the radio, Estomih heard that our leopard had now been joined by his brother, so we headed back to the see the rather touching sight of the two siblings hanging out together in the branches of a tall tree.

Brotherly love

Having seen all of the big cats, we could relax, enjoy the Serengeti scenery, and pay more attention to the park’s less famous animals and birds, like the dik-dik, the smallest antelope…….

The cute dik-dik

…..a big fat hippo, out of its pond…..

……the strange looking topi….

the Topi

….and the beautiful lilac-breasted roller bird.

Lilac-breasted Roller Bird

Towards the end of the day we bumped into a group of hyenas

A pack of hyenas

A short way further on, we found two lions who had recently killed a buffalo. They sat there with bloodied mouths and fat bellies, digesting their meal.

Two well-fed lions digesting their meal

It had been another great day, but over dinner back in our bush camp I began to wonder if we had already seen everything there was to see in the Serengeti, and whether the next two days here might become a bit repetitive. Fortunately I was wrong, as you will see in the next posts.

Previous Post: From Lake Natron to the Serengeti

Next Post: From Central to Southern Serengeti

Tanzania – Tarangire National Park

Trouspinet (left) and Snoopy

Welcome from Trouspinet the vagabond teddy bear! This time my destination is Tanzania, and I am accompanied by my friend Snoopy for a two week safari. As far as I know, there are no bears in this part of the world, but I am hoping to see lions, leopards, cheetahs, elephants and lots more – plus some amazing scenery and interesting people. We travelled in January to escape the depressing winter weather in London, but made the mistake of booking a flight passing through Schiphol airport in Amsterdam, where a couple of days of cold snowy weather had caused the cancellation of most of the flights. I followed developments anxiously online, but miraculously my flight from London into Amsterdam and my continuation to Tanzania were both among the small number of flights that operated.

Chaos at Schiphol airport, but we were very lucky

From the freezing cold in Amsterdam, we arrived in Arusha, Tanzania’s third biggest city, late in the evening. Immigration and baggage claim were both very efficient and soon after landing we were enjoying some warm fresh air and a cold beer by the side of my hotel’s swimming pool. We slept well and next day after breakfast met Estomih, who was to be our driver and guide for the next twelve days. He showed us to a large and comfortable specialised safari jeep with an opening roof, and we set off to our first destination, Tarangire National Park, a two hour drive away.

Our guide Estomih
Locals were curious to see a teddy and dog on safari
The entrance to Tarangire National Park

Tarangire Park is known for its dense forests, baobab trees and elephants. It is also home to lions and leopards, but they are usually hard to see because of the vegetation. However, luck smiled on us and a short way after the park entrance we bumped into a group of three lionesses drinking water and half-heartedly stalking some nearby zebra.

Two lionesses drinking water
A third lioness stalking zebra

A short way further into the park we came across a leopard, hiding high in a tree.

A lazy leopard in a tree

Surprisingly, finding Tarangire’s famous elephants proved rather harder. We drove around searching but the huge animals were nowhere to be seen, so instead we made a break for lunch at one of the park’s picnic areas. This proved to be a treat, and was to be a highlight of each day of our trip. Estomih brought a huge picnic hamper out of the jeep, found a picnic table, and set out a spread of rice, meat and vegetable stews, fish and fruit. As a final flourish he even produced a bottle of Tanzanian wine.

A feast at Tarangire National Park

We spent a leisurely hour sampling this feast and relaxing, occasionally driving away naughty monkeys who would jump onto tourists’ tables and steal any unguarded food.

After lunch we set off to explore again, and soon stumbled on a large herd of elephants slowly making their way through the jungle.

A herd of female and young elephants

We also bumped into a few single adult males, who usually live separately from the herds of females and babies.

A solitary male elephant

As the afternoon wore on, it grew hot, and the wildlife became harder to see. Estomih drove us towards the remote part of the park where our camp was located; on the way we saw two more very sleepy lions.

Two sleepy lions

Our accommodation was located inside the park, meaning that it can be visited by wild animals, especially at night. The manager introduced us to his camp, and explained the rules to us – the most important one being to use the walkie-talkie in our room to ask for an escort to take us to and from the restaurant at night. He said that there had been cases where camp staff or tourists had been attacked by animals, but that inside our tent we were quite safe. After dinner – which was good, given the remoteness of the site – we settled down in our tent for the evening. It was large, with a big bed and separate toilet and shower inside. We were soon drifting to sleep, listening to the sounds of the jungle around us. Our safari trip around Tanzania had started well.

Our bush camp at Tarangire National Park

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