Dochula Pass
Today we set off at the very civilised time of 9 am and headed east out of Thimphu. We were soon climbing a steep mountain road with lush vegetation and finally reached Dochula pass located at an altitude of 3,100m. There, a magnificent view of the Himalayas opened up, including Bhutan’s tallest mountain, Gangkhar Puensum (7,500m). Behind these mountains was Tibet, annexed by China in 1950. The border with Bhutan has been closed ever since, leaving the country totally dependent on trade with India.
Amazing view over the Himalayas
The view was enhanced by a remarkable modern monument – a series of stupas or chortens built on small hill. There are 108 in total - an auspicious number in Buddhism, corresponding to the number of sacred Buddhist texts. The stupas were constructed over 2003 to 2004 to mark the fourth king’s victory over a group of heavily armed Indian separatists that were using Bhutan as a base to raid their home country. Now they are one of the most beautiful modern monuments I have ever seen, perfectly complementing the stunning mountain scenery. The current king has his own new stupa project, constructing 108 stupas within one day at a location in the south of the country. This is due to be done on the 1st November 2026, so by the time you read this, Bhutan may have another major new attraction. The new stupas are being built to encourage world peace - let’s hope it works.
Dochula Pass and its 108 stupas
Chimi Lhakhang temple, the temple of fertility
Once I could finally tear myself away from looking at the mountains, our route took us steeply downhill towards the centre of the country. We stopped at the Chimi Lhakhang temple, famed as a place that can cure infertility. Visiting women wanting to have children have to carry a large wooden phallus (proudly on display inside) three times clockwise around the temple and then receive a blessing from a monk. The temple was founded and built in 1499 and became a centre for the honouring of Drukpa Kunley, also known as the “mad master”, a yogi from Tibet. Kunley was as much renowned for his like of alcohol and womanising as his teachings, and advocated the painting of large phalluses on the walls of temples and people’s homes in the belief that this brought about fertility. This practice has really taken off in the region – many houses were decorated with large penises, and the souvenir shops were full of painted wooden, metal or even woollen knitted examples of the male member. Since my blog is popular with children and families, I won’t show any of this crudity here and instead just show a photo of the outside of temple. It was quite pretty but small, and because it was very popular with local worshippers and foreign tourists, it was the only place I visited in all of Bhutan that felt overcrowded.
Temple of Fertility
Punakha's Dzong
Next, we headed on to see one of Bhutan’s highlights – the magnificent dzong at Punakha, the capital of the country until 1955. It is the second largest and second oldest dzong in Bhutan, dating from 1637, and makes a spectacular sight, sitting at the confluence of two rivers. Although the capital has moved to Thimphu, and Punakha is now a small and sleepy town, its dzong retains much of its previous importance. It is the place where Bhutan’s kings are crowned, and where the central monastic body resides over the winter months. Access to the dzong is by a very pretty wooden bridge, and we were soon standing in front of the entrance, which has three steep sets of stairs – of which the central golden steps are reserved for the king or the chief abbot when they visit.
The Dzong in Punakha
Inside the dzong are three beautiful courtyards decorated with rich carvings. Like other dzongs, half of the complex is for use by government workers and half by monks. The religious half of the dzong has a remarkable temple, whose richly painted and carved interior was one of the most remarkable things I saw in Bhutan……..but, sadly, as with all Bhutanese temples, no photos were allowed.
Magnificent temple
Beautiful wood carving
The chortens at Dochula Pass and Punakha’s dzong had been two highlights of a memorable day in Bhutan, but more was to come – my hotel. It was a beautiful traditional Bhutanese house, sitting on a hill with a view of the dzong. The room was spacious and richly decorated in the local style, the staff were friendly and the food was excellent. I was beginning to like Bhutan a lot.
View from our hotel
View off the Dzong at night
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